Learning the Language

Me at the Basilica dedicated to the Spanish Civil War

The view at Valle de los Caidos

Last week was great! I got to go with my group to El Escorial and Valle de los Caidos on Friday, both of which were fascinating. Traveling around Spain has been a blast, but it's about time to get to the nitty gritty of why I am here-- Spanish! That being said, I'd like to display a glimpse of my language/mental adventure instead of talking about the physical adventures.

In the beginning...

Before coming to Spain I had taken four and a half years total in Spanish courses and was really soaking in my class. I learned basic grammar and vocabulary to the point that I was about at a third-grade reading level.

Upon the night of my arrival I think I used just about everything I knew (granted I did have jet lag, but I'm not sure having a good night's rest would've helped much.) My host family, who are fascinated with America and NYC, was very excited to greet my two roommates and I that night. We introduced ourselves and talked about the differences between Alcala de Henares/Madrid/Spain in general and the U.S.A.

The whole first week was a fiasco in learning about the bus system, because we not only had to learn to take public transportation on a regular basis but also how to do it in a foreign tongue! Needless to say we spent most of our first days lost in the streets after asking locals where we were although we could hardly understand a word. I remember thinking the people spoke so, so, so fast!

All I have to say about my first week is that it was all a blur.

The trial and error...

After about my first three weeks of getting used to Madrid, my classes and my surroundings I had a strong desire to get crackin'. So I tried to speak Spanish as much as I could, especially out in public. There's just one problem-- the second I opened my mouth everyone knew I was an English speaker. I didn't realize my accent was still strong although my teachers always congratulated me on my diction in my oral exams! When they saw that I knew English although I was clearly speaking Spanish, the locals would respond in English. This was either because they were learning English and wanted to practice it (which I love to do at home) or because they were tetralingual and were thus impatient with me speaking a language I'm not fluent in.

At first this made me very frustrated because I was trying to be a good student! So then I came up with a clever solution... I posed as a German! After all I really am a quarter German in my ancestry, so why couldn't I pull off being from Berlin? However this posed a lot of problems because, as you can probably guess, I only know two words in German while many educated people know at least a few sentences.

All I have to say from that approach is that it should never be done because you'll get yourself into more trouble. 

After many instances I found my solution! When people start talking to me in English I always respond in Spanish, no matter how broken it may be. If the conversation is a little complicated or extensive then I simply explain that I am a foreign exchange student trying to learn. After that the Spaniards completely change their attitude. Sometimes they've found it flattering that I want to learn their native language.

Everyday tactics...

The best ways to learn, I’ve found, is to talk to the locals in a stress-free environment, making sure that they realize you are not fluent yet. However finding exactly who to talk to can be quite a challenge. I have it lucky because I can talk to the members of my host family any day I wish, but even then you can only learn so much from talking to only three people.

Here are some of the easiest kinds of people to talk to:

·      Children. If I can make sure the parents knows I’m not a pedophile, then I talk to kids as much as possible. Reason being that they are on your level of comprehension! They speak simply and don’t judge you as harshly, which really gives me the fuzzies inside.

·      People that you have something in common with. So far those who I’ve connected with are fellow members of my faith and immigrants from the New World. For example while my friends and I were in McDonalds in Madrid sitting on a table with a local when we asked her a few questions about how to say a certain phrase. That opened the whole can of worms of why we were learning Spanish in Madrid and where we were from. When we told her we were from the U.S.A. she got very excited about it and said that she was from Paraguay—as if Paraguay is any closer to America as Spain! Regardless, we shared the common thread of being outsiders and embraced the fact. The least it did was facilitate conversation.

Here are some of the hardest kinds of people to talk to:

·      Old people. They have very, very, very thick accents and have a hard time understanding foreigners’ accents. It’s even worse when they have gravelly voices. I don’t suggest talking to them right off the bat.

·      Groups of people at the same time. Sometimes when I talk to several people at once I feel like I am getting bombarded by words. It’s just confusing!

Another habit I’ve gotten into that has helped me a TON is keeping a “librito de vocabulario” and a pen with me at all times. It is surprising how easy it is to forget new words if you don’t write them down to look at later. Plus it is a great way to record the little moments of the day. Afterwards I put them in a vocab list in Word.

To be continued…

Obviously I still have infinitely more to learn, so if I find new tactics I will be sure to let you know!

Gastronomy!

Although not as famous as France for the culinary arts, Spain has some very unique and delicious dishes and eating habits. I thought I would start with the day in the life of a Spaniard:

6:00-8:00 Wake up and get ready (time depends on person/profession). Breakfast consists of a cup of coffee, milk or juice with a small pastry.

9:00-2:00ish Work the morning shift and come home for lunch.

2:00-2:30 Rush hour!

2:30-3:30 Lunch. This is the biggest meal of the day.

3:30-4:00 Second rush hour!

4:00-8:00ish Work the afternoon shift and come home for the evening.

8:00-8:30 Third rush hour!

9:30-10:00 Eat dinner similar to American lunch.

This really is the schedule of the day, believe it or not! In some ways it is wonderful, like the fact that I don't feel awful for eating late in the evening, but in some ways it is tough, like the fact that my morning brain power is backed up by two graham crackers and orange juice when I am accustomed to "real" food.

This is my typical breakfast:

Principe Cookies

• A mug of milk (which has been boxed so it lasts longer but isn't fresh like in the States)
• A swallow of orange juice
• Corn flakes eaten inside my mug of milk OR an amazing Principe cookie. Principe cookies are like EL Fudge but 100 times better.

Lunch varies but is almost always a one dish meal with a simple dessert. Here are a list of my favorites:

Lomo

• Lentejas: a tasty lentil soup with chorizo (Spanish sausage)
• Arroz Cubano: rice with tomato sauce, salchicha (Spanish hot dog), and easy-over eggs mixed together in one.
• Lomo: breaded and sauteed pork loin chop.
• Ensalada Rusa: potato salad consisting of mayo, potatoes, pickles, hard boiled eggs, tunafish and peas.
• Paella: rice dish with any combination of meat in a saffron sauce. I prefer seafood-- shrimp, calamari and mussels.

My wonderful friend Madeleine with her Paella

Dinner is nice and light and varies. These are my usuals:

• Scrambled eggs on toast. I think I like this so much because it reminds me of home!
• Pork Burger with bacon. It is surprisingly lighter than it sounds.
• Canned soup. Typical varieties are noodle soup or pumpkin soup.
• Spanish Tortilla. This is a sort of potato omelet.

When going out to eat to celebrate something special, lunch is the time to do it. However, Spaniards also socialize in the evenings by going to bars and ordering "tapas." What is really awesome about tapas is that no two restaurants will have the same tapas on the menu, and each province has unique delicacies.

Me trying Rabo de Toro

Pulpo con Patatas

My roommates tried "Pulpo con patatas" which was sauteed octopus with potatoes in olive oil. It was surprisingly yummy! It tasted like mussels with an outer membrane of fat (tentacles). In Sevilla I ate "Rabo del Toro" or cow tail bone with gravy. To me it tasted like a more tender and fatty version of pot roast.

Probably a more mainstream tapa are "croquetas." Croquetas remind me of the mozzarella sticks at Olive Garden, except not nearly as sticky. Inside is cheese mixed with small bits of a variety of meats as well. My favorite had salami and onions on the inside. ¡Qué delicioso!

Croquetas

Dessert at home usually consists of something small like fruit or pudding or Principe Cookies, but when there's a special occasion they really go crazy with rich sweets. One very popular one is "Chocolate con Churros."

It is completely obvious that the Spanish created the chocolate that we know today. "Chocolate con Churros" was in every travel-guidebook I've read about Spain, and now I know why. Chocolate (or Spanish hot chocolate) has more of a melted chocolate bar texture with a bitter-sweet taste. Surprisingly this is not overwhelming because the chocolate is not meant for drinking, but for dipping churros in. 

Classic "Chocolate con Porras"

Churros are like those in the states except for the fact that they are plain, without cinnamon or sugar. Porras (a wider version of churros) are also a tasty option. The best part is that they must be eaten straight away after being fried otherwise they will get unpleasantly tough, so everything is fresh!

Even the cheap chocolate is ten times better than anything back at home-- no joke.

Barcelona- La Sagrada Familia

Compared to Madrid, Barcelona has a completely different mood, style, culture and even language. Upon arrival I was shocked to hear the same amount of English as Spanish! Here in Barcelona they speak Catalan, the language of the state of Catalonia. It is very similar to Spanish in that I can read it without any problem, but I can hardly understand a single spoken word. The Catalonians are very proud of their language and culture to the point of rebellion and threats of secession from the Madrileña Spain. In fact there were some public protests going on while we were exploring one evening. Nevertheless, Barcelona is my favorite part of Spain (besides Madrid, of course). Barcelona has a very different mood compared to the places I’ve visited so far. Being a port city, the Mediterranean air made for very pleasant weather and fabulous seafood.

My favorite sight to see was the magnificent Sagrada Familia Basilica. Since there are hardly any skyscrapers in the city, the huge cathedral sticks out like a sore thumb—I mean the thing is impressive! A true Catalonian named Antoni Gaudí designed the Sagrada Familia although several other artists have contributed to the building. The work began in 1882 but is still unfinished due to funding problems and the Spanish Civil War. Almost all of the money used to fund the construction of the Cathedral nowadays comes from the entrance fee(s) that tourists pay. It is very obvious what parts of the cathedral are new and what parts are from the turn of the Century. Initially when I saw that it was still not completed I did what the typical Americans do-- I rolled my eyes in disgust at the slow process and looked to my watch thinking, “Isn’t about time you finished the thing? After all you started it over a hundred years ago!” However my tour guide showed me a very humbling point of view about the Spanish mindset towards the Sagrada Familia. “Who cares how long it takes?” he replied, “This building is a piece of living history. Artists, architects, craftsmen, designers and even construction workers all want to contribute to it. Who’s to say that only one generation can have this opportunity? We want to be a part of it and we want our children to be a part of it. Once it is finished it will be like any other Cathedral from Medieval times.” That being said, I now have a great respect for this work. It is “projected” to be finished in 2026.

 

Passion Facade

The outside, especially the entrance façade, is very, very, very ornate and symbolical about the history of Christ. The Nativity Façade was finished by the 1920s and was very unique. From the top to the bottom are the following scenes: Angel Gabriel visiting Mary and informing her about how she will bear the Son of God, the star on Bethlehem with angels rejoicing, and finally Joseph and Mary with the Christ child. Off to the left are the three Magi and to the right are the shepherds with their herd. What makes the Façade unique is that there are some modern details that are incorporated into the fine print. For instance two of the angels are playing instruments of our days such as a bassoon and a large harp. There are also carvings of animals found in the Americas like turkeys carved at the request of some wealthy donors.

On the opposite side of the Sagrada Familia is the Passion Façade, which completely contrasts the entrance. Another true Catalonian, Josep Maria Subirachs contributed the austere cubic sculptures that depict the suffering and Crucifixion of Christ. Although it was very controversial when it was completed I absolutely love it. I feel like the stark images really allow for a true depiction of the Crucifixion in a tasteful manner. Below the Passion Façade is a statue of Christ’s scourging with a loose stone on the top of the pillar. This is to signify that when the stone (representing the old Law of Moses) falls, there will be a new Law to replace it because of the Passion of Christ.

Peter weeping after denying Christ
three times before the cock crowed

Compared to the outside the inside is surprisingly simple. The Resurrection stained glass windows allow light to brilliantly illuminate the nave including the ceiling, which has colored glass tiles that reflect light all around, giving the impression of sunlight peeking through trees. Gaudí meant for the interior to be very simple and dedicated to the Resurrection to show that only those who truly believe can come inside and worship Christ because they already know the symbolisms, history and doctrines manifested on the exterior of the building.

Resurrection windows

Me in one of the Nativity towers

Although a ton of progress has been made in the past ten years, there is still an overwhelming amount of work that needs to be accomplished. The finished product will include 18 towers in total but I only counted 8 completed towers: 4 at the Nativity Façade and 4 at the Passion Façade. It will be a beautiful sight to see the towers rise within our lifetime as we witness the Spaniards take part of living history.

Andalucia-- The Perfect Escape from Winter

I know that I've been a little naughty the past week and haven't posted anything new, but I have a very good excuse! My classmates and I went to Andalucia, a southwestern province/region for the entire week and I had hardly any internet access at the places we were staying. That being said, I have a ton to talk about! Here are some highlights of my favorite place that we visited:

La Mezquita

Endless Arches

Cordoba is a small but unique town nestled by the snake-like Guadalquivir River with an immense history behind it. Cordoba was founded by Romans who built a bridge that would still be functional in the 21st century as well as temple to the Gods with marble pillars close to the river bank. When the Roman Empire collapsed, the Visigoths (Germanic nomads) took over the city for a few centuries until the Muslims came in and brought a few good ideas with them. Starting in the 700s, the Muslims decided to convert the Roman temple into a sacred mosque, or as the Spaniards say "mezquita." The Mezquita has a courtyard orchard of what now consists of mostly orange trees, but it originally consisted of palm trees. Through the main arches (which are now closed but would have been wide open) are the ancient Roman pillars with an added decoration of limestone palm leaves on top to mimic the palms in the courtyard. The symbolism is that God, represented by nature, and man, represented by the pillars, have come together in the same location. The open arches allowed for sunlight to enter the mosque horizontally from the North and shine toward Mecca while illuminating everything in its path. Unfortunately the arches to the outside have now been closed, which makes the interior very dark and awful for pictures.

Holy of Holies

Despite the lack of light, I was absolutely in awe as I entered La Mezquita because the pillars seem like they could go on for infinity, which is what the Muslims were going for. The pillars are color coordinated by alternating between black and pink marbles to lead up to the Holy of Holies. The cold stone and colorful arches with a very, very simple layout give a different mood than other religious buildings, for instance a Catholic cathedral.

Speaking of Catholics, Cordoba was conquered by Christians in the early 1200s and by the Renaissance there were literally no Muslims left in Andalucia. However the people of Cordoba loved the beauty of the mosque and sought to preserve it. It wasn't until Carlos V's reign in the 1500s that things started to change. During that time, a new bishop came into town and he hated the Mosque because it was Islamic. Contrary to what the people wanted, he asked permission of Carlos V to destroy the center of La Mezquita in order to construct a Catholic cathedral on the inside and allow for Christian worship in the mosque. Carlos, who had never seen the mosque, ignorantly gave the bishop permission and agreed to visit Cordoba three years into the building process to see what the bishop had in mind. Upon arriving to Cordoba, Carlos was disgusted at himself for allowing the destruction of such a beautiful monument. Today the center of the mosque is a cathedral in the Baroque style; In fact while I was in the chapel I could not even tell that I was in a mosque, and while I was in a mosque I had no idea I was in a cathedral!